Figure and Fashion
Different human figures: - Not all human being have
good figure. Few maintain them others do not. All types of clothes look good on
a perfect body. But most of the people do not have a good figure.
Unproportionate human figures are classified into following types: -.
1 Height: Some people are too tall or too short
2 Face: - Broad or long face
3 Size: - some are too thin or too fat.
2
Bust: - Some females have flat bust others have big
bust No proper curves
3
Shoulder: - No proper shapes of the shoulder
4
Hips: - Too small or large hips, No proper curves
5
Neck: - Long or short neck, fat or thin neck
6
Waist, some have too thin waistline and some have a
protruding stomach. `
OPTICAL ILLUSION: -- Optical illusion means to make a person appear
different from what he originally is in order to make it appear pleasing to the
eyes. A designer never gets a perfect figure to design with. Hence he has to
design the garments in such a way that they bring out the best of personality
of the wearer.
Factors affecting illusion are: -
Lines: - Line is
defined as that which has got length but no breadth. Eyes follow the lines so
they affect the figure. A vertical line can make the figure look taller and
slimmer. Similarly Horizontal lines make the figure appear short and stout
because they cut the height. Therefore short and fat people should wear dresses
with vertical line and long personalities should wear outfits with horizontal
line. Oblique and diagonal lines are flattering and eye-catching. Curved lines
are graceful than straight lines. Wavy lines give feeling of joy.
Boththe above lines are exactly
of same length but there placement in above mannercreats such an optical
illusion that the spectator thinks that line no, 1 is bigger than line no. 2
In the above figure both the square are of same
size but due to vertical lines in the first square it appears longer than the
second one
Prints: - Fat personalities should wear dresses
with small prints and thin personalities should wear dresses with big prints.
For a thinner personality to look healthier he should wear checks print
Color: Color
affects the appearance of human figure the color you wear should make your skin
look as vital and alive as possible. They should brighten up your eyes and
bring out the lights in your hair. And also remember that there is no skin that
cannot be helped by a becoming color, no eyes and no hair that will not yield
some gleams when displayed in the right settings.
As people grow older they will generally find that
the softened tones of their favorite colors will be more becoming to them than
the brighter shades. Warm colors make the figure appear larger. Cool and dark
colors make it appear slimmer.
Both the boxes are of same size but box no 1 appears bigger
due to warm color in the box in comparison to box no 2 which has a cool color
Use dull colors for tall and slim figure. Use dark
colors for short and stout figure.
Anyone can
wear black with a transition color between the garment and the skin of the face
and neck. Warm flesh color, eggshell or soft pale pink, chartreuse green or old
ivory, used in yoke, collar or vest. Will make black becoming to almost any
skin.
Many
women are afraid to wear white. White is mostly used during hot seasons as it
keeps the body temperature cool by not absorbing much heat. Off- white tones,
however- especially in sheer or soft surfaced fabrics are becoming to most
people
The question for you to settle is just what tint
is best for you.
Texture :-It refers
to the way the surface of something feels or way it is expected to feel. A
shiny fabric makes the body appear larger, but a dull finish gives a slimming
effect.
Silhouettes
A silhouette is the outline made by the garment on the human
figure. Every fashion is not suitable for all figures. No two human figures are
same. Every student of fashion designing must keep in mind that hardly any
figure must have a perfect proportion. Hence a designers prime concern is to
design garments in such a way that they would make a figure appear attractive
by drawing attention to best features and covering worst features.
How to find your Silhouette
This is a very easy and perfect method to find your own silhouette.
Select a comparatively dark room. Make the room absolutely dark by closing all the windows. The best time to do this experiment is nighttime. Light a candle and place it on the edge of a table. The top of the candle must be exactly the same height as your waistline.
This is a very easy and perfect method to find your own silhouette.
Select a comparatively dark room. Make the room absolutely dark by closing all the windows. The best time to do this experiment is nighttime. Light a candle and place it on the edge of a table. The top of the candle must be exactly the same height as your waistline.
Remove
all the extra clothing you are wearing and be in your under garments that are
perfect. Do not wear anything that will conceal the true outline of your
figure. Don’t wear padded or push up bras.
Now
face a blank wall and walk straight away from the candle to a distance twice as
great as your own height. Take care that the wall is plain and it’s preferable
to have a white wall. This will throw a shadow of your correct silhouette on
the wall. First study it facing the wall, then turn to the side and study your
“profile” silhouette. Any little peculiarities of figure will be instantly
detected
In taking your silhouette, if you find that the outline is not clear and sharp, if it is a little blurred or hazy, take a step forward or backward watching the wall carefully and you will invariably find the exact spot to stop.
In taking your silhouette, if you find that the outline is not clear and sharp, if it is a little blurred or hazy, take a step forward or backward watching the wall carefully and you will invariably find the exact spot to stop.
Dressing for a particular
silhouette
Short
:- We should use such optical illusions the personality should look tall.
The outfit should have narrow shoulder.
The outfit should be tight fit
Belt should be narrow
Tall
Should wear loose fitting clothes
Use stiff material
The sleeves of the out
fit should be puffed and little long Try to use more pleats or gathers around
the waist to increase its fullness.
Use a wide belt
Don’t use deep neckline
Fat
personality: - Mostly V neckline should be avoided
Plain sleeves are used
Any type of pleats and frills should be avoided
Avoid shiny material.
Slender
personality: - Costumes should be not too tight. Deep neckline
should be avoided. Use fullness at the sleeves
Short and Stout
silhouette
Clothes with vertical lines should be used as they
make the figure appear taller
Clothes should be well fitted. Not too tight or
not too loose.
Select solid color material or material with small
prints
Avoid puffed sleeves and round necklines
Soft fabrics like Crepe, Linen, Georgette can be
used.
Short and slender
silhouette
Use both vertical as well as horizontal lines
Use loose fitting clothes.
Use large prints
Use soft lightweight fabric rather than heavy
fabric
Tall and stout
silhouette
Diagonal lines should be used
Sleeves should be simple and well fitted
Use smooth
material
Tall and slender
silhouette
Use garments with horizontal lines
Should wear loose fitting clothes
Use puffed sleeves, padded shoulders etc
Use stiff material
Flat
busts:- Mostly use padded bras
Artificial padding
should be done
Clothing near the bust should be not too tight.
Large
busts: use plain bras , Padded bras should be avoided
Clothing near the bust should be not too tight.
For Short necks
. Don't choke them or muffle them or put strings of large pearl beads around them. Give them air. Deep V necklines add inches to short necks
For long necks\
Bateau necklines should be used. Use frilled collars, draped blouses and unsymmetrical necklines,
minimize
those hips.
: People with large hips mostly have narrow shoulders compared to hips , increasing the broadness of the shoulder may create a optical illusion of smaller hips as due to broadness of the shoulders the viewers look instead of going directly to the hips gets divided between hips and shoulder. . Choose a pattern with a V bodice construction when you can, but be sure the V is in good position, standing right side up, with two of its points somewhere near the shoulders and its third point centered somewhere below the waistline Wear a two piece garment so that the viewer attention will get distracted from the hips. Boleros, cape backs and jackets have a little swing that distracts attention from rounded contours below the waist. Soft blousing over a judiciously placed waistline often produces the desired effect.
: People with large hips mostly have narrow shoulders compared to hips , increasing the broadness of the shoulder may create a optical illusion of smaller hips as due to broadness of the shoulders the viewers look instead of going directly to the hips gets divided between hips and shoulder. . Choose a pattern with a V bodice construction when you can, but be sure the V is in good position, standing right side up, with two of its points somewhere near the shoulders and its third point centered somewhere below the waistline Wear a two piece garment so that the viewer attention will get distracted from the hips. Boleros, cape backs and jackets have a little swing that distracts attention from rounded contours below the waist. Soft blousing over a judiciously placed waistline often produces the desired effect.
Use circular skirts.
For narrow shoulders
. Narrow shoulders require sleeves set as far out on the tip of the shoulder as is consistent with a good fitting armhole. Capes are very acceptable. Shoulder epaulette yokes increase the apparent width of the shoulder.
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